San Jose the Central Valley Information

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SAN JOSE AND THE CENTRAL VALLEY

Costa Rica’s capital, San Jose is located in the central valley of the country surrounded by vistas of volcanoes and fertile hillsides. At 3,770 feet above sea level, the city maintains a year-round moderate temperature, varying from the mid-70s during the day to the 60s at night--giving it a perfect climate for visitors and residents alike. Although founded around the mid-1600s, San Jose didn’t become the nation’s capital until the 1820s, after independence from Spain. Since that time, San Jose, and the Central Valley within which it lies, has become home to nearly a third of the country’s population.

After arriving into Costa Rica’s newly modernized Juan Santamaria International Airport, most visitors will spend at least three days in San Jose. Before heading out to the many day trip opportunities in the Central Valley, make sure you spend at least a morning or afternoon walking within San Jose itself. The offices of the Costa Rican Institute of Tourism, the ICT, can provide you with a comprehensive map that can aid you in your exploration.

One of San Jose’s sights of which Costa Ricans are intensely proud is the National Theatre in the Plaza de la Cultura. Inaugurated in 1897, this architectural and artistic gem is a prime example of the country’s rich history of peaceful government and desire for self-improvement: drawn by the desire to attract the fine performing artists of Europe to Costa Rica, a group of coffee growers and merchants proposed a form of self-taxation in order to finance the theatre’s construction. European, as well as Costa Rican artisans created a classic 19th century opera house, that proved worthy of the opening night production of Faust by the Paris Opera. The theatre was given national monument status in 1965, and today’s visitors can enjoy evening performances, daytime tours or even a lovely lunch at the theatre’s charming café.

San Jose offers a wide variety of other sights for visitors to discover. Lovely parks, elegant cathedrals and world-class museums are waiting to be explored. There are a great variety of hotels, catering to every style and budget, that make a stay in San Jose more than comfortable, and after exploring the city or the Central Valley, one can find plenty of restaurants to help extend the pleasures of the day. Nearly every cuisine of the world is represented among the extensive offerings, and each one will include typical Tico hospitality along with whatever is on the menu. And for those still looking for a little excitement after dinner, one could head out to dance or music clubs to enjoy anything from the ubiquitous Latin beat, to classic blues and jazz.

From San Jose you will have all kinds of day trips available to choose from. Some visitors also choose to go on several overnight trips within the Central Valley area, using the city as their base of operations. Whichever option works for you, there are more than enough choices for every taste and interest.

The Cordillera Central—or Central Mountain Range, forms a portion of the Central Valley’s northeast border. The Reserva Forestal Cordillera Volcanica Central—made up of close to 165,000 acres of protected land, including three national parks and a variety of private and national forestry reserves—forms an enormous corridor of green tailor-made for single and multi-day activities. Five of the Central Valley area’s volcanoes are situated here, and linking at least four of them would be an exciting trip. The world famous Ruta de los Conquistadores mountain bike race crosses through these peaks, following the original route of the Spanish conquerors as they crossed the continental divide. A far less grueling “Volcano Route” between volcanoes Irazu, Turrialba, Barva and Poas could be accomplished in either direction, and as leisurely or as energetically as desired. Numerous country inn style hotels can be found along the way, often providing activities such as hiking, horseback riding or rafting within their regions. Be prepared to stop along with way and fully take in the many impressive look out points. Fertile slopes covered with the deep green of coffee plantations, pine forests, native oak forests and verdant pastureland form part of the views. Good roads climb nearly to the top of both Irazu and Poas Volcanoes, traveling through cloud forest and transitional zones en route. At 11,260 and 8,870 feet above sea level respectively, be prepared with sweaters or light jackets when traveling to see these lofty giants.

The Turrialba Valley and its namesake volcano is currently one of Costa Rica’s “hidden treasures”. Fewer people visit the area, but the numbers are growing as the word is spreading about the fabulous activities to be found there. The valley is a sports enthusiast’s paradise, with some of best mountain biking in the country, and whitewater fans will find excellent kayaking and rafting. In addition to the sweeping vistas of the Talamanca Mountain Range, there are numerous spots of cultural interest to visit by bicycle or car, including, marketplaces, sugar mills and macadamia farms, as well as a wildlife rehabilitation center in Pavones run by Minor Camacho. “Turrialban” Don Minor worked in the venom extraction laboratories of the University of Costa Rica for over 20 years before moving back to the area, and a visit to the center is an important education into snake behavior given by an incredibly knowledgeable man. One additional “must do” is the Guayabo National Monument. Considered the most significant archaeological site in Costa Rica, these pre-Columbian ruins set in premontaine rainforest are believed to be have been inhabited by about 10,000 people from roughly 1000 B.C. to 1400 A.D. The excavated areas include circular mounds and large petroglyph covered stones with anthropomorphic figures of a jaguar and crocodile, stylistically representing two Indian gods. The peaceful site is veiled in mystery, as archaeologists still don’t know why the city was abandoned before the conquistadors discovered Costa Rica.

There are mountain-lodge style hotels in the area that provide guided walking, horseback riding or biking tours up the dormant volcano. One of the few paramo ecosystems in Costa Rica, Turrialba is also the only volcano where the crater can be explored. In addition to ancient lava flows, there’s plenty of wildlife to see at these lofty peaks, including the resplendent queztal and the unusual three-wattled bellbird. Often these lodges are only accessible by four-wheel drive vehicle, so many establishments offer transportation from San Jose as part of their packages.

On the other side of the Volcano Route lies one of Costa Rica’s newest nature based travel opportunities. Only an hour out of San Jose near Poaz Volcano National Park, La Paz Waterfall Gardens welcomes visitors to a virtual paradise of natural beauty. Four well-planned and maintained trails wind around five waterfalls and through a forest of fern trees, leading guests through a wonderland of mist-clad vistas. The lookout points provide ample space for restful contemplation of the views before heading onward in the self-guided tour. Visitors have the choice of returning to the Welcome Center via a shuttle bus or through the trail loop.

Before heading down to the falls, the trails lead first into a huge butterfly observatory, reminiscent of a beautiful 19th century pavilion. As you enter, it’s difficult to decide where to gaze first, at the vaulted structure itself or its luminous residents. An on-site laboratory serves as an education center for those wishing to learn more about the species seen there.

The next stop on the trail is a lovely hummingbird garden, complete with enough feeders that each visitor is nearly surrounded by these fluttering gems. Every direction provides a feast for the eyes, as well as a wonderful sense of well being achieved by the verdant surroundings.

Back in the beautifully designed welcome center, visitors are offered a delicious buffet lunch of regional food before either heading back to San Jose, or back into the gardens. The center has ample space for group gatherings, and private villa style lodging is planned for the future. From nearly every perspective, it’s difficult to imagine a more restorative day trip out of San Jose.

So even if you don’t feel up to hopping on a bike and taking part in La Ruta de los Conquistadores, you can still enjoy your own exploration of the incredible variety and beauty to be found in the Central Valley’s Volcano Route.

San José Museums

Like many Central American cities, San Jose has developed layer upon layer from Spanish Colonial times to the present. Although San Jose has plenty of modern structures, there are a significant number of historical buildings that now contain some of the city’s most important museums. Originally serving as fortresses, prisons and factories, these museums now house more than exhibitions within their walls—they embody historical presence as well—and the city’s relatively small size adds to the ability of visitors to experience most of these museums within a short period of time.

Beginning centrally, visitors might choose to start their day at the Plaza de la Cultura. Seeped in history, with the Hotel Costa Rica and the National Theatre, newcomers are often surprised to learn that a complex of museums operated by the Costa Rica Central Bank lies beneath this wide expanse. As the only Costa Rican museum housed in a building specifically designed for that purpose, the Gold Museum—Museo de Oro Precolombino—is a glittering wonderland of Pre-Columbian metalwork. The collection of this artistry is so extensive that a portion of the museum’s holdings has traveled worldwide. This extraordinary collection, never before displayed nationally, is now part of a temporary exhibition that will soon be incorporated into a current renovation of the museum’s holdings. This project, still underway, will not only give visitors the opportunity to view the remarkable pieces, but will also place them within a more cultural context. Interactive educational dioramas are planned that will engage visitors of all ages. In addition to these archeological displays, this museum complex hosts visiting exhibitions of contemporary art, as well as containing a permanent collection illustrating the history of Costa Rican currency. (Calle 5, Ave. Central/2; open Tues-Sun 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m.; residents 700, non-residents 1500, children under 7 free, students with valid I.D. 300, Wednesday free for Costa Rican citizens and residents; Tel: 243-4202)

Across the Parque Espana lies the Contemporary Art and Design Museum (Museo del Diseno y Arte Contemporaraneo)—Costa Rica’s premier venue for avante garde installations. Housed in the National Cultural Center, (Centro Nacional de Cultura) which includes theatres and the Ministry of Culture, the series of buildings once incorporated the National Liquor Factory, including the West Pavilion--one of the oldest buildings in San Jose. The museum’s four rooms present both permanent and rotating exhibitions featuring both international and local artists, displayed in a soaring historical space that allows for both large scale and intimate presentation. (Ave. 3, Calle 15/17; open Tue- Sat 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; admission: adults 300, children 150; 257-9370)

Not far from the National Cultural Center lies the National Museum (Museo Nacional). Housed in the century old Bellavista Fortress, there are bullet holes in the turrets from the 1948 civil war. But that historical evidence is all that’s left of those long-ago times. Now the museum’s peaceful central courtyard overlooks the Plaza de la Democracia, in front of which you’ll find an artisan market featuring items from Ecuador and Guatemala, as well as Costa Rica. Nearly 50 years ago the fortress became a museum, which now contains some of the country’s foremost research facilities and educational programs, focusing on Costa Rica’s indigenous heritage, as well as the National Library. The museum also currently houses the country’s beautiful and extensive collection of pre-Columbian jade objects. (Calle 17, Ave. Central/2; open Tue-Sat. 8:30 a.m.- 4:30, Sun. 9 a.m.- 4 p.m.; admission: adults 200, children free; 221-4429)

Just north of downtown lies the Costa Rican Center of Science and Culture (Centro Costarricense de la Ciencias y Culturas)—often only referred to as the Children’s Museum. Built in the early 1900s, this castle-like building once contained the city’s penitentiary, and the foyer contains a photo display and model of the structure in earlier times. The museum’s exhibits are educational and entertaining, focusing on Costa Rican culture, as well the environment, life sciences, the solar system, and much more. Children of all ages will enjoy the many interactive galleries, including one in which a section of floor moves in order to illustrate varying degrees of seismic activity. In addition to the museum itself, the center also contains a gallery space for temporary art exhibits, a library and an auditorium that often hosts concerts by the National Symphony. (Ave.9, Calle 4; open Tue-Fri 8 a.m.-3:30 p.m.; Sat-Sun 10 a.m.-4 p.m.; admission: adults 600, children 400; 222-7485)

Located at Parque La Sabana, the Museum of Costa Rican Art (Museo de Arte Costarricense) displays the most representative collection of nationally produced fine arts, from the end of the nineteenth century to the present. In addition to several permanent collections, the museum also hosts temporary exhibits of fine art. When completed in 1940, the building originally housed San Jose’s first international airport, and Costa Rican history is preserved pictorially in the astounding bronze-painted stucco and plaster carved walls of the Diplomatic Salon (Salon Diplomatica), where the nation’s presidents would receive important guests. Now known as the Salon Dorado, this jewel-box like space is often used for chamber concerts and other special activities. (Parque la Sabana, Paseo Colon; Tues-Sun 10:00a.m – 4:00p.m; admission: adults 400, children free; 222-7155).

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San Jose the Central Valley Information